Nara

Yesterday we spent exploring the delights of Nara...I can' wait for a lie-in - we haven't had one yet! Nara was the first real capital of Japan, although this doesn't mean much, as everywhere seems to have been the capital at some point. In fact, in keeping with Shinto beliefs, the capital had to be moved as each emperor passed - what a kerfuffle! Thankfully, this business died out in the 7th centuary, when it became law for the whole country to come under imperial law. Anyway, Nara is home to eight Unesco heritage sights and during its brief period as capital, it adopted many cultural influences from China. As a result, Japan accepted Buddhism as its national religion, and this in turn had a lasting impression upon the arts and Japanese archtecture and literature.

The streets of Nara (as many other Japanese towns seem to) are set out in accordance with the Chinese grid-pattern, and the main touristic feature is Todai-Ji. This temple accommoates a massive bronze Buddha. Buddha lives in Daibutsu-den hall, which you approach once entering a huge gateway - Nandai-mon - and is guarded by two scary-looking wooden carved statues (Nio guardians). As seems to ffrequently be the scenario, Diabutsu-den (literally, "Great Buddha" ) Hall does not stand in its original form...this one is only two-thirds the size of the first. The present structure was rebuilt in 1709. The Diabutsu, first cast in 746, is one of the largest bronze figures in the world. This version stands a mere 16m high and is constructed of 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold. The original had been battered several times over the years by earthquakes and fires and his head often fell off due to these natural disasters.

It is believed that the temple was constucted to ward off smallpox - a huge problem in Japan in years preceding this building. Within the temple stands a pillar which has a hole carved into it. This hole is exactly the same size as one of the Buddhas nostrils (bear with me). If you can squeeze yourself though the hole, you are said to be sure of enlightenment. This was not a feat I felt ready to take on...especially since the Japanses appeared to be having difficulty. Anyway, I managed to persuade Andy and his snake hips to have a go...which he did, but I think he got scared and a bit claustrophobic. I don' t know, he doesn't ever seem to complete these missions...

Anyway, it was all very awe-inspiring, and the great Buddha was flanked by two golden Bodhivistas (I think that's right) and we took lots of photos. Another great thing about Japan is that you are virtually allowed to take photos of everything, no matter how ancient or holy. It then became far too cold to see anything else... there are loads of temples in Nara, so we headed for the National museum to see lots of Buddhist art and sculptures. Did I mention how nice the coffee here is? As a result I have converted from a herbal tea-drinker into a major caffeine addict (again).

Can i add in at this point (Andy speaking), that Todai-ji, is the worlds biggest wooden building! And it felt like it too, standing in front of it was a truely impressive sight. Nara was a really nice, chilled out, small Japanese town, loads of deer everywhere and tons of temples.
P.S We are now staying at... the Costa del Sol, Kyoto :) and very nice it is to!