"Very cheap, very nice..."

We are loving Hoi An...Mainly because it's hot (around 28 degrees) and also because it's very pretty and there's lots to see. Today, we pootled off to Cua Dai, a fantastic white-sand beach. It stretches 30km along the palm-lined coast to Danang. Within seconds of arriving, I was pounced on by three women - one bearing fruit, the other jewellery and the other offering a foot massage. A winning combination if ever there was one. Before I knew it I had committed to not only a foot massage but also a back and head rub, some beads, a mango and a dragon fruit. Lou lou (the one with the beads) told me I was born in the best year - that of the dragon and that I would live a long and happy life. She asked me where my boyfriend was (at this point he's become bored and gone for a beer) and pointed out that he was a pig (Chinese starsign, that is), which meant that he works hard and sleeps well. "Why you no marry?" Before I had chance to answer, she summised "'cos you no horny?"

Lou Lou commented that my toes were like baby's fingers, and that she loved my skin. I noticed that every part of her skin was covered and was even wearing wollen gloves - to keep her skin white. Upon Andy's return, she noted his grey hairs and said that really it was about time we were married and got horny. Her beads were "cheaper than Tesco" and when I tried to barter a bit she replied "I no come down in last shower!" Hilarious woman. So it would have been a very relaxing day, had we not been approached aproximately every 7 minutes and offered the same thing over and over again...

We've hired a motorbike and Andy is out practicing on it. It was a bit terrifying at first, but we are getting into the swing of it and it is a really easy way to get about. Yesterday we visited My Son - buddhist temple ruins from around the 4th century and having been rebuilt several times since. It was partially bombed during the Vietnam-American war, but damage was minimised when an expert on this type of architecture wote a letter to US President Nixon to protest this. As a result, the US forces continued to kill the Viet Cong, but no further damage to the monuments was sustained.

The type of architecture is known as Cham and is characterised by its use of brickwork, and decorated with Hindu art. It is Uenesco heritage site and of great historical importance, alongside other Indian-influenced civilisations throughout Southeast Asia, such as Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Ayuthaya in Thailand. The Cham people adopted Hinduism from commercial relations with India. The whole area is set amongst lush greenery and is a tranquil escape from the hard-sell of the town.

Hoi An itself is centred around the historic Old Town. Unlike the old quarter of Hanoi, it is very well preserved and looked after. Within its walls are many beautiful pagodas and temples (mainly of Chinese influence)... and about 300 tailors! You can have anything you like made, replicated, altered or repaired. I will get round to it, I'm sure but was very disappointed with my experience of this in India. Trying to persuade Andy that having a bespoke suit made will be a very cheap investment, but you know what he's like...

The food here's very good. Local specialities include the addition of a crow to the snake wine; Cao Lao (regional type of pho) and the white rose, a type of steamed shrimp dumpling. There's lots of good, fresh fish - usually grilled in a banana leaf and served with sticky rice. Even the local beer - Larou as it's hilariously named, is O.K. At 30p a go, it is anyhoo (budget dictates not allowed Tiger - very expensive at 50p a bottle). So our evening meal usually costs around a fiver with beer. It's actually surprisingly difficult to stick to our 12 pound a day budget (especially with all the touting going on) and something which I need more practice at. Still, I've got all that birthday money to spend...

Have both burnt a bit in the sun - we just weren't expecting it! Poor Andy has developed chicken neck and can be seen for miles. This bloke even came up to him on the beach and pointed out how red it was. Very thoughtful of him! We may venture to Marble Mountain tomorrow...This is the first place in 'Nam we've not felt like moving on from.